Scotch College

Grossi Faire - Great!

It has been said that an expert is someone who makes the complex look simple. By that yardstick Guy Grossi is a genius.

In a coup for the Wine and Food Society, President Mary Gyles lured Florentino's Guy Grossi and his assistant, Marilena, into the Language Centre Kitchen on 24 July for what turned into an evening of culinary delights and wonderful entertainment.

The shock of being greeted by the carcass of an eight kilogram lamb was remedied by a welcoming glass of non-vintage Rosemount sparkling chardonnay and the chance to watch Guy and Marilena busily preparing the evening's fare.

The entrée was Tortellini d'Aragosta served on a Mushroom Duxelle with a Watercress Sauce, the flavours so balanced that all the main ingredients were instantly discernible. Mary chose a 1997 J. Vidal Fleury Cotes du Rhone, a blend of several wines from the Rhone Valley, to serve with the Tortellini.

Guy emphasised that the menu he had prepared was a snapshot of Grossi Florentino food, true to its origins as Italian regional cuisine but adapted to embrace local influences.

The main course, preparation of which occupied the first part of the evening, was Abbacchio Alla Romana, which made use of virtually the whole lamb. Cooked in a baking tray on a high heat, this essentially simple dish was full of flavour and entirely redolent of late Sunday lunches in the Italian countryside.

The accompanying wine was a Sangiovese, a 1994 Campomaggio with a dense plummy flavour, without being heavy. It had some length and an unusual pot-pourri residual nose.

Dessert was Pears cooked in syrup and served with a Chocolate Sauce and a Praline Semifreddo, the latter prepared in advance.

It was certainly the most complex dish of the night. A non-vintage Mondoro Asti accompanied the dessert. By itself, the wine was overly sweet but the Chocolate Sauce ameliorated the sweetness and improved the match.

The meal alone was a delight. Having the chance to watch and listen to one of Melbourne's great chefs demonstrate his passion for his work in such an entertaining way was a wonderful opportunity … and another triumph for the Wine and Food Society.

David Thomson