Scotch College

A Journey into the Clouds

The 2002 High Altitude Trek to Nepal started at around 10:30pm, on 27 March, when a party of fourteen Year 10 students, two teachers and two doctors arrived at Melbourne Airport for check in.

The next three weeks were the three weeks which we had all been waiting for since we expressed interest in the trip way back in 2000.

On arrival in Kathmandu, after a long flight via Bangkok, we soon learnt that the biggest vehicle on the road wins, as our bus bullied its way to the hotel. Due to political unrest in Nepal, the school had been in constant contact with Mr Crispin Conroy, the Australian Ambassador, who invited us to have afternoon tea with him at his Residence at the Australian Embassy. The next morning we received a very early 4:30am wake up call, as we prepared to eat our final proper meal before the fifteen day trek. We arrived at Kathmandu airport with great expectations, and after a spectacular flight with the reliable Yeti Airlines, we landed in Lukla which is at 2800m. This was the beginning of the magnificent scenery, which improved as we climbed higher.

As we watched our porters set out carrying 60kg loads on their backs, we soon followed along the same track through the mountains while we continued to cross and re-cross various rivers on 100m long suspension bridges. We also passed through various villages as we followed the Dudh Khosi River through beautiful rhododendron forests.

 After a few days of trekking and steadily gaining altitude, we began to approach the Sherpa 'capital' of Namche Bazaar. The walk to Namche Bazaar was the first real significant gain in altitude and many boys noticed this and suffered mountain sickness. However, this did not stop us as we spent three nights there to rest and acclimatise.

In those three days we managed to chat with local children, play football with the Sherpa guides, visit the local markets and make a trip to the nearby Khunde Hospital, where we made a monetary donation. We also visited the Khumjung School. At Namche Bazaar we came across English schoolboys, who as we trekked along sang some familiar tunes including Jerusalem and the theme songs of Neighbours and Home and Away.

As we continued on the trek, the views became even more stunning as we gained altitude.

We stayed at a monastery called Thyangboche (3870m), which has some of the most incredible mountains in the Himalayas surrounding it, including the peak of Everest in the distance. Yak bells were now a familiar sound warning us to make way for them, and Pringles and chocolate bars from the local shops/tea houses were becoming a substitute for meals.

From Thyangboche the surroundings changed rapidly from forest to barren, rocky alpine vistas which opened up from a set path through trees, to walking on wide open spaces, melted snow and glacial rubble.

The Ascent of Kala Pathar

As the nights grew colder we approached our highest campsite, Gorek Shep (5288m), at the base of Kala Pathar. The Sherpas were of great assistance, as many of us struggled with the altitude. At Gorek Shep we were surrounded by huge peaks, most of which were at least in excess of 7000m high. Kala Pathar is akin to a 5545m 'pile of rubble' in the mighty Khumbu glacial valley, while in the background lay some of the highest peaks in the world.

We set out early the next day for the ascent of Kala Pathar. With only half the oxygen level of Melbourne and a 257m gain in height, everyone struggled up to the top. From the top of Kala Pathar the early morning clouds cleared, revealing Mt Everest (8848m),

and surrounding peaks such as Nuptse (7745m), Pumori (7145m) and Lingtren (6697m). Looking down we could see the multi coloured 'specs' which were the tents of expeditioners at Mt Everest Base Camp.

The stunning scenery at this high point made the slow and difficult ascent of Kala Pathar worthwhile.

Now that we had reached our goal, we retraced our steps along the same route. We stayed one more night at the cold and very uncomfortable campsite of Lobuche, where it snowed heavily all through the night. We were woken early by our Sherpas banging the snow off our tents, and ate another serve of porridge, while sitting at an outside table in the snow. As we headed back towards Lukla we crossed and recrossed the Dudh Khosi River and passed through our previous campsites. On our last night in tents we had a party with our Sherpas, porters and kitchen staff, who had become our good friends over the fifteen day trek.

When we arrived in Lukla, it was comforting to know that a bed would be waiting for us, but there was still one more night to wait until we could have a much needed shower and a meal which didn't consist of curried potatoes, local breads or porridge. The next morning we took off from Lukla, the runway being a short one with a sheer drop from one end and a wall at the other!! As we quickly gained downhill speed, after a few moments of fear, we plunged into the Himalayan sky; it was now less than an hour until we would be back into 'civilisation'. As we arrived at the Radisson Hotel everything seemed so luxurious, especially the buffet meals, showers, spa and the sauna.

Now that the trek was over it was time to experience Kathmandu. After a substantial buffet meal at the hotel, we all visited the local tourist district of Thamel, which sold a great variety of Nepalese souvenirs. We learnt that the starting prices were usually more than triple what you end up paying for them; so bargaining was a required skill. We visited temples and a local eye hospital, where we again made a much appreciated donation.

The highlight of the trip was obviously reaching the top of Kala Pathar, as well as experiencing the Nepalese culture.

On behalf of all the boys, I would like to thank Mr Zannoni and Mr Janse van Vuuren for organising such a great trip and providing such great memories, and also Dr John Silver and Dr Andrew Speirs for the great care and support they gave us along the trek.

Andrew Mitchell
Nicholas Hildebrandt

 

Pictures

1: Having achieved our goal: the trekking party on top of the Kala Pathar (5545m) with Mt Everest in the background.

2: Trekking back from Kala Pathar.

3: Group at Australian Embassy in Kathmandu