Scotch College

Grossi's Golden Goal

The Mural Room at Grossi Florentino in Bourke Street was the venue for Big Reds Dinner of the OSC Wine & Food Society on 18 June.

Outside the temperature had dipped down to four degrees. Inside under the chandeliers and Napier Waller's murals from the 1930s, a very special evening began to unfold. In the kitchen, chef Guy Grossi was seriously focussed putting the finishing touches to the night's fare - and Italy was playing Korea in the World Cup.

On arrival, members and guests were greeted by Elizabeth Grossi and her staff and offered a glass of non-vintage Peter Rumball Sparkling Shiraz, grown in Coonawarra and made by the méthode champennoise in Norwood, a suburb of Adelaide. It was less sweet than many of its type and an elegant start to the evening.

Dinner began with a salmon tortellini in sweet corn soup followed by a pressed terrine of confit duck wrapped in cos with a currant dressing. A 2000 Devil Bend Pinot Noir made by Richard McIntyre at Mooroduc Estate, from grapes sourced from just outside the Estate, one of the warmest spots on the Mornington Peninsula, accompanied the terrine.

Next in a veritable catalogue of delights came a ricotta gnocchi with roast rabbit and white bean ragout, served with a 2000 O'Leary Walker Cabernet Merlot, a savoury dry red which matched perfectly with the rabbit.

The major dish of the evening was reef fish poached in spiced red wine on celeriac purée with a calamari and Belgian endive salad and fois gras enriched sauce. It had been matched with a 2000 C.B. Shiraz from Cheviot Bridge which seemed to me to be a too-powerful pairing with the chosen wine overpowering the delicate flavours of the food.

Comments from Michael Trembath, of 3T Wines, linked the evening and provided the diners with a chance to question him about the wines. Guy Grossi made a fleeting visit to the dining room but soon hurried back to the kitchen - and the World Cup.

The final offering of the night was a Pyenganna cheddar from Tasmania paired with a 2000 Italian Zinfandel - a strong red wine not the least bit like the pale pink Californian wines made from the same grape.

Once again the Wine & Food Society hosted a memorable occasion. The choice of one of Melbourne's most historic restaurants, founded by Rinaldo Massoni in the 1920s, was an inspired one. It was a great night - but Italy lost!

David Thomson